Mt. of Olives view of Old Jerusalem
Gethsemane- inside the church is the Rock of the Agony where Jesus was arrested
Casting nets on the Sea of Galilee
Synagogue at Capernaum where Jesus taught
Day 1 Departure USA
Day 2 Ben Gurion-Jaffa-Tel Aviv
Day 3 Caesaria-Mt. Carmel-Galilee
Day 4 Cana-Nazareth-Capernaum
Day 5 Mt. Beatitudes-Tiberias-Jordan River
Day 6 Safed-Banias-Golan
Day 7 Mt. Tabor-Jordan Valley-Mt. Olives
Day 8 Sabbath
Day 9 Ein Karem-Bethlehem-Shepherd's Field
Day 10 Gethsemane-Via Dolorosa-Mt. Zion
Day 11 New Jerusalem-Emmaus-Elah Valley
Day 12 Return USA
Driving from the airport, Zack mentioned and pointed out biblical Lydda or Lod - the Jews had just finished the Feast of Tabernacles (Sukkot) and had prayed for rain - and there was evidence of the first rain in six months - it is a sign of blessing in a desert land - Zach talked about the three major Jewish holidays: Passover, Pentecost and Tabernacles. We drove to biblical Jaffa where Peter raised Tabitha and his experience of openness to the Gentiles - we saw the harbor where Jonah fled from God amid uncertainty - fleeing God's will - the ancient harbor where the cedars of Lebanon were floated down to built the Temple of Solomon - and reflected on Simon Peter's vision of God's "tallit" , Hebrew for prayer shawl, holding all the animals of the earth - how he had to listen more deeply to the message about Jesus sending them to the ends of the earth, beyond the Jewish world - listening to God at deeper levels seemed to be the message. Zack then showed us the panoramic view of modern Tel Aviv growing around us. We were on "the Way of the Philistines", also known as the Via Maris ("Way of the Sea") in Roman times. Zack pointed out that the Israelites avoided this road in the Exodus by going into the desert. He also talked about the history of Tel Aviv - as the fulfillment of the Zionist dream. He explained that the name meant "hill of the spring" and is taken from the Prophet Ezekiel's "Vision of the Dry Bones". Spring symbolizes rebirth: Tel Aviv, founded 100 hundred years ago by Jewish pioneers, reflects the rebirth, the coming to life of the Jewish people in God's Promised Land, in a very real and practical way. Zack talked about the founding of Tel Aviv as the heeding of an inner call by a handful of Jewish pioneers. That they followed an instinct of the heart, not rationally explained. The Zionist founders of Tel Aviv and Israel, who returned to build in this empty place, were pilgrims as we are - not doing the rational thing - that faith always involves a struggle.
We needed to eat so we drove to the Carmel market in Tel Aviv - all fresh products - lots of pomegranates in season - we were mixing with the locals - as we drove to our hotel, Zach explained Ben Yehuda who helped develop the modern Hebrew language - to our hotel on the Mediterranean Sea for some rest, shower - some walked the beach - at 7 PM we celebrated Mass. We celebrated the self-emptying of God in Jesus and reflected on what we need to let go of to "listen" on this pilgrimage. We looked at why we had come to the Holy Land and what we expected. The message was surrender our expectations to the God of Israel - and let divine activity happen. Many shared something we would have to let go of or surrender to be open to God's activity on this pilgrimage - there was some powerful and poignant silence - and some tears. Fr. Bob gave us our Liturgy books and a daily Scripture reading guide. We had a wonderful buffet dinner and later went to sleep with the waves of the Mediterranean Sea splashing in our ears. We were really here in the Holy Land!
We came to Caesaria, the ancient Roman capital at the time of Jesus, which was built by Herod the Great - it had a great port. We sat in the Roman theater - reflected on Simon Peter and Cornelius - the struggle of openness and boundaries. Zach talked about the Roman context of the times of Jesus and the struggle facing Simon Peter and the followers of Jesus - he talked about a "pilgrim" meaning "one who ascends" - and how this journey might be a struggle - an ascent of the spirit and somehow a call out of our comfort zone! Zack talked about the biblical message that God creates to give Self away - the purpose of the Jews was to carry the Word through history to all people's - this was Simon Peter's vision - we reflected on Proverbs saying the "human soul is the divine spark" and how we are to be a "light to the nations". Zach told rabbinic stories about God being the flashlight and the protector at our doors. We read the account from the Acts of the Apostles of Peter going to Caesaria to visit Cornelius, a Roman Centurion, after his vision in Jaffa - the issue of opening the message of Jesus to the Gentiles. We reflected briefly on following faith, about the struggle the early followers of Jesus, esp. Peter. How he had to be faithful to the message of Jesus as they confronted the larger world - especially the Gentile world - and created a new and broader future of God's Reign. We then walked past ancient Roman columns strewn over the sand to view Herod the Great's seaside palace, where later on Pontius Pilate and the procurators that followed him would live. We saw a plaque engraved with "Pontius Pilate", Roman Governor in the time of Jesus, the only non-biblical archaeological proof of Pontius Pilate. It was probably here in the palace where Paul was brought for judgment. We reflected on Paul being imprisoned here before going to Rome. That strange but wonderful feeling began to arise in our hearts - we were really here - following the paths of Jesus and the early apostles. Scripture would come alive! We then strolled through the recently excavated Hippodrome where the Romans raced horses, viewed the Crusader city from the 12th/13th century and the area that would have been the Jewish quarter in Roman times. Zack explained that it was here that the Jewish revolt broke out here in 66 AD and spread throughout the land. We then went to see the ancient Roman aqueduct which brought water to Caesaria from Mt. Carmel before going to lunch.
Back on the bus we continued north along the Mediterranean coast to Mount Carmel. Zack talked about how Cornelius would come to understand the biblical faith and customs from his local Jewish friends - and thus be open to messianic expectation and Jesus. He explained the Jewish custom of almsgiving (in Hebrew "tzedakah" means "to do righteousness"), as a way of redeeming and of doing justice - how it was unique in the ancient world. Justice involved community responsibility for others - we are our brother's keeper! Fr. Bob then talked about the Carmelites - their founding amid the disillusionment of the Crusades.- explaining Elijah, Our Lady of Mount Carmel, the Carmelites and Carmelite spirituality (John of the Cross, Teresa of Avila, St. Therese and Brown Scapular) - we drove up Mount Carmel (the Garden of God) to the base of the wadi ein Siah and started our climb up Mount Carmel - some were beginning to suspect the sanity of Fr. Bob - it was warm & sunny as we ascended - dry river beds thirst for living water - Fr. Bob explained the Prior's cell at the beginning of the 12th century original monastery - in the ancient ruins of the chapel of "Our Lady of this place", near the spring of Elijah, we celebrated Eucharist, amid weeds as the breeze was blowing and proclaimed the Word of God - Our Lady of Mt. Carmel helps us be focused where we are - where God meets us and invites us to listen deep within - listen to the whisper that is our truth! Several among us renewed their vows as Carmelites - the gentle breeze was the biblical whisper - we suspected God was speaking loudly and we'd better listen - some started to collect rocks and we drew water from the spring of Elijah - some went up to the Prior's Cell. Then we drove uphill to the top at Stella Maris to a cave of Elijah - had a brief service of Mary - overlooked the Bay of Haifa - and saw the protected statue of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel.
The sun was setting as we drove across the lower Galilee. Zack explained how, in Elijah's confrontation with the 400 prophets of Baal on Mt. Carmel, Jezebel had been trying to eradicate the memory of 1,200 years of Jewish history with God and have them worship her Baal - Elijah called the people not to defile the Lord - the jealousy of God demanded a fiery revolution of purification - that he obliterate the Baal worship, because Baal was a god of fear from beyond - a god to be kept happy - the God of Israel is the God of freedom and dignity - the God within us - that we are created in the divine image and are to be creative and take responsibility for fulfilling God's plan - to be light to the world - if we are true to God and ourselves, we are free! How there is no possibility for growth without memory, especially their sense of responsibility for the creation and for themselves. Remembrance is the key to salvation - Zack explained how the confrontation at Muhraqa on Mount Carmel - it changes the emphasis from keeping a god happy to taking more responsibility - that the story is about the God within, whom we must listen to. As night was falling we drove across the lower Galilee, saw again the It was dark as we reached our kibbutz guest house on the Sea of Galilee - we had dinner and we able to finally unpack - it was quiet and peaceful - we were on the Sea of Galilee!
On the way to Nazareth, we saw the Sea of Galilee - Zack explained the Galilee means "rolling hills" - Zack talked about parenting and the self-giving involved - God is about self-giving - and that the law of God is "be fruitful and multiply" - that in Hebrew "marriage" equals "holiness - marriage is where we can most easily find God - in its lived reality of self-giving - and the issue of the third day of creation, when the possibility of life is present - "be holy as I am holy": the great biblical theme and command. We drove first to Cana in Galilee - a small Arab town - we entered the newly-renovated the main Church - Lois read the John Gospel story of the miracle at Cana in Galilee, reflecting on his version of Jesus' first miracle, announcing the reign of God at the request of Mary, the faithful people. This is about transformation of life by God - faith turning water into wine - then Paul & Jackie and Raymondo & Maria renewed their marriage vows ("I still believe in the miracle which brought you into my life") - we celebrated the sanctification and consecration to each other - how the two sides of male and female create the wholeness God's wants. The pain of absent and lost spouses was tangibly felt also. Zack explained that the third day reflected the third day of creation - the tension and possibility of life - the only day God twice said that "it was good" - tension causes changes as life happens - the mission of Jesus is about change - and why John stresses this first miracle. Zack talked about marriage as "being made holy" - playing out the self-giving of God - being for the other - the great act of love. He talked about Judaism being more a home religion - the table at home being the altar before God - the sanctuary. After the service we all went across the street for shopping - some bought Cana wine.
Driving to Nazareth, Zach first talked about the role of family and having kids - how kids bring our self-giving - then he commented about what Mary meant to us, and explained about Nazareth is the same root Hebrew word as the "sprout" in the morning Scripture reading - the sprouts of the olive trees, symbolic of the anointed Messiah. We drove into Nazareth, where Jesus was conceived and grew up. Zach explained about the Hebrew language and its symbolic nature - how there are different roles for men and women in the biblical view - how Judaism is a home-based religion and the woman is Queen of the home. He explained how the same root word is used for mercy and a woman's womb - compassion/loving kindness being the fiber of women. How God betroths us with righteousness and justice, with mercy and loving kindness - both men and women are created in God's image and we need both to understand and be human, but that women have a higher spiritual plane - how Mary of Nazareth is a biblical symbol of this.
We entered the Church of the Annunciation and went first went downstairs to the ancient Fiat Chapel, facing the small room and tiny stairs, which the ancient tradition reverences as the home of young Mary - we celebrated the Eucharist of the Annunciation - Mary proclaimed the Word of God about the Annunciation. We reflected on the Scripture of God's promise and His asking Mary's permission to become flesh and break into human history in a significantly new way. The powerful presence and echo of her "YES" filled our hearts. Sr. Mary renewed her vows as a BVM Sister. "Surely the Presence of the Lord is in this place...!" Our responsibility to help God become enfleshed in our world. After Communion, we spoke the names of our parents amidst this assembly - they were present with us! Then we had some brief quiet time in the Fiat Grotto - those seven small steps - just imaging that small teenage girl. Wow! Then upstairs, we quietly toured the upper church, with its icons of Mary of Nazareth from around the world, reflecting different cultures - the USA version seemed strange - like she was dressed in aluminum wrap - outside to the ground level excavation of Jesus' time - Zach again explained the root of the name Nazareth - "netzer" - the new shoot of the olive tree - speaking of new life, eternal life, from ancient source - it speaks of hope, protection and the future - it also means "crown prince" - the builder of the future.
In the courtyard, Zack explained the tower - the inverted lily, from the Shekel coin. Then next door, at the Church of St. Joseph we descended to the excavations at the level where there is an ancient tradition that it is Mary and Joseph's house - the homestead of the Holy Family - and the water basin and ritual bath - mikve- there. Zack explained that the Hebrew word "mikve" means "gathering of the waters", echoing a return to and immersion in the harmony, purity and integrity of Eden. Mary, Jesus and Joseph would have ritually bathed there - it seems as though they were a reasonably well off family. Zach shared a bit about Jewish ritual washings and the woman's purification rites.
Then we walked thru the town - past the carpentry area till we reached the Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation, over the city well- the Spring of Mary- where the Holy Family, especially Mary and Jesus, surely came for water each day. We saw the water source of Nazareth. Before leaving this churchyard, we read the scriptures in the courtyard, as we remembered that Jesus returned there from the desert to proclaim his Isaiah vision of the Messiah, that he was thrown out of the synagogue there and how his hometown friends rejected him - and that he never performed miracles there nor felt at home there during his public ministry - their familiarity with him blocked their faith.
We had trouble getting out of Nazareth on the bus - it was crowded - but eventually we went to lunch at a Kibbutz restaurant. Zach briefly explained Jewish kosher laws. We were in the Jezreel Valley and at the foot Mt. Tabor. We then drove across the Jezreel valley to Capernaum, as Zack talked about parents as partners with God in creating and nurturing God's children - how parents reflect the behavior of God. And he reflected more on kosher laws, which would make his people more distinguishable, so that they could be a public sign - a light to the nations. He also talked about the commandments - and how they are in Hebrew, much more "utterances" - the 613 of them in the Torah and how they help us "come into unity with"- teaming with God in the creation of his reign.
There were few other buses as we arrived at Capernaum, which Jesus used as his headquarters and home during his public ministry. It was a much more cosmopolitan and open city - crossroads of caravans - this was a good place to get news out. First to the traditional site of Peter's house where we shared the Scripture stories of the calling of the apostles here in Capernaum, and of Mark's first miracle of Jesus, healing Peter's mother-in-law. A saucer-like church is built over the ruins. Here Jesus was experiencing the power of God within himself, as we were standing on "holy ground". Zack explained the large family houses there, how the people lived together, grandparents, parents, and children. How the Hebrew word for "son" means "builder" and that our sons, our children, are our builders and our future.
Then we went into the ancient synagogue, built on top of the volcanic rock synagogue where Jesus preached so often. We really were exactly where Jesus was! On one side of that special ancient synagogue, in the shade away from the blazing hot sun, we celebrated a healing service, in memory of the many healings Jesus did in Capernaum. Sr. Pat, Lois, and Mary Ann, who are in healing ministries, led us through our areas of needed healing and silently laid hands on us with the healing power of Jesus of Nazareth. Fr. Bob anointed us with holy olive oil and chrism. Some Indian women from another group joined us with great respect and honor. Powerful feelings embraced us. Zack did a brief explanation of the town, its wealth, cosmopolitan nature, the elaborate decorations, the Shofar, the millstones and the menorah and the nature of community in Jewish tradition and prayer. Because we were now alone in the site, we had time to go into the saucer-like Church above Peter's house. Wow! We had quiet time amid a hectic day - no other pilgrims to wait for or jostle with. This was a miracle in itself. We drove back to Ma'agan, our kibbutz guest house, on the east side, on the Golan Heights - it was 5:30 - a long but good day - some went swimming in the Sea of Galilee - dinner - and a peaceful evening - reading Scripture.
Then a brief drive down the hill to Tabgha, the place of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes - the place of the seven springs - brilliant bougainvillea were blooming - Zach explained about the warm springs and why fishing was so good at this point of the Sea - we saw evidence of olive and wine presses. We reflected on the Scripture story: God intervening and multiplying? Or Jesus challenging us to share the plenty that we have to create the reign of God? - both are divine, miraculous power - the miracles announce the reign of God! "This is Holy Ground!" Inside the church, beautiful mosaics of birds, flowers and plants - the famous bread and fishes mosaic from Byzantine times! God nourishing His people - another bread & fish Eucharist. Some brief shopping from bead & fish memorabilia. We drove to Tiberias, to Decks on the Sea of Galilee - on the way Zach talked about fishing in the time of Jesus - and how Jesus used fish stories - the half-shekel tax - and the Amnun fish, which we call St. Peter's fish - how the mother opens its mouth to swallow and protect her young when endangered. At Decks we had a lunch of St. Peter's Fish - head and all - with many middle eastern foods - there were many comments about the similarities between Judaism and Christianity - someone commented that Zach seemed like a closet Christian - he suggested that we were closet Jews. We drove to Nof Ginosar kibbutz to get the "Jesus" boat we had reserved - wooden boat like olden times to sail on the Sea of Galilee - it was sunny, warm and calm - we sang and read the stories. We remembered how Jesus and the apostles fished here, fled here, traveled across the Sea here, walked on water, calmed storms - so much of his public life on and around this lake - we reflected on storms, turbulence and trust - do we let Jesus calm the storms of our hearts? Then the skipper shut the motor and we experienced some profound silence to let the Sea of Galilee speak to our hearts. Zack explained that the Sea of Galilee: a life-giving sea because it receives and gives, unlike the Dead Sea which only takes. We looked at the northern part of the shore of the Sea where so much of Jesus' public ministry occurred - we whispered the names of people we wished God would call here - "How can I keep from singing!"
Then we drove to the southern end of the Sea of Galilee (near our kibbutz) to Yardenit (Jordan River) baptismal site where the Jordan River empties and begins its journey to the Dead Sea - we took a spot for our group to renew our Baptism. Many purchased white robes. We had a brief service remembering this historic river, (a real "mikve of living water"), the boundary of the Promised Land - it is smaller than expected - where the children of Israel entered at the end of their desert Exodus - and where Jesus was baptized and accepted his role as Messiah from John - we renewed our Baptismal vows. Ida, as the youngest, became John the Baptizer, in white robe, recalled our baptism by immersing us, with the help of Fr. Bob. Many filled water jars of River Jordan water. Then we did some shopping in a new shop there. Driving away Zach again talked about the waters remind us that we are searching for the waters of Eden - the original harmony - we become immersed in the living waters of Eden - the symbolism Jesus was using. Zach explained the purpose of the Mikve bath in Jewish tradition on the way - the issue of ritual immersion, and how Jesus was building on something which already existed - how the symbol of water immersion renews itself in every generation - the issue of "living water" - directly from the sky, not "drawn water" - how it reminds us of the waters of Eden and the state of integrity which God creates us for. Mikve reminds us of the spirituality of women, and is one of the defining signs of God's people - like kosher laws, which remind us that we are to enjoy God's creation, but with limits. How Sabbath rest is even for animals. Fr. Bob reminded us about Jesus' dialogue with the Samaritan woman about "living water". We drove back to our kibbutz guesthouse. It had been a beautiful, emotional and long day - but our spirits were soaring - many went swimming in the Sea of Galilee - a true mikve! Dinner - we had a learning about kosher responsibility when some people had brought butter from the dairy breakfast to this meat meal - and how it might have prevented religious Jews from eating there. Scripture reading - a night's sleep.
As we drove north, past Korazim, Zach explained three forms of fishing - cast net, dragnet and trammel (or seine) net - and Jesus calling us to be "fishers of men." Driving north into the mountains of Upper Galilee Zack talked about Jews living here in the north constantly for 3,000 years. - the return for those in Diaspora after 1492 expulsion from Spain - the Islamic Turks invited them to come to the Galilee to save them from Catholics and the Inquisition. We were climbing up 3,100 feet, to Safed, a quaint Jewish city and artist colony, with a strong mystical tradition. Zack talked about the great rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai who lived in the 2nd century, disciple of Rabbi Akiva, and his mystical vision after being in a cave for 14 years at the time of the Bar Kochba revolt (130's after Christ). We walked through narrow picturesque cobblestone alleyways. Children were getting out of school and ready for Sabbath. We visited two ancient synagogues - Zach briefly explained their prayer, the synagogue - we saw surprising parallels - he spoke of their reverence for the power of the Word of God among the people - we prayed the Sabbath prayer Lecha Dodi - "God is my Soulmate". Zack even sang and explained "Sabbath the Queen" to us in Hebrew - it had been written right there in Safed. Sabbath is the "foretaste of salvation" - like we speak of Eucharist as the "foretaste of heaven". We were seeing more and more the connectedness and roots of our faith. It was very powerful. Later Zach explained briefly the Kaballah, the mystical writings on the Torah, the issues of the numeric value of each Hebrew letter, the Book of Splendor - the issue of light and darkness, and the human soul as the spark of God. This is the same school of mysticism which Carmelite John of the Cross came from.
Then we drove east and north - the long drive to Banias (Caesaria Philippi), where Jesus made his strategic withdrawal after the death of John the Baptist - Zach and Bob had different views on why Jesus went there - it is source of the River Jordan coming from underneath Mount Hermon - the Pantheon of Roman temples - was Jesus reaching out to the larger Gentile world? Was he going to the source of living water? It was a reflective time for Jesus and the guys at the end and collapse of his public ministry - what's going on? Who to do people say that I am? More important, who do you think I am? Peter, the one who listens more deeply, responds and makes refreshing eye-contact. Isn't that the question Jesus continues to ask us? We saw that huge Rock - symbolizing God - God calls us to a light to the nations - to the whole world! We had lunch at the restaurant there.
Returning we drove across the Golan Heights - we saw the Road to Damascus (Paul's conversion) - had some Druze bread - we again passed Gadara (where the swine ran down the hill) - returning to Ma'agan - the sun was setting - Sabbath was beginning - we were exhausted - it was our last night on the Sea of Galilee - people spent quiet time saying goodbye - our time in the Galilee had gone all too fast - as we packed to leave for Jerusalem, we are struck with how our luggage is getting heavier - with Cana wine, rocks and Jordan River water. This time in the homeland of Jesus has been awesome - so much to absorb and listen to!
Because we also were remembering this male bonding weekend Jesus had there, the men of our group gathered outside in the Crusader ruins to remember and celebrate the holy men of our history and the holiness of our lives. We named our fathers, grandfathers and significant men in our lives. A few women watched as the men anchored themselves in their powerful tradition. Then upstairs, a cool breeze blowing, Zach explained the valley of Jezreel below - so important in the history of Israel - and the village of Naim - Deborah - the hills of Samaria. We then began our journey south to Jerusalem following Jesus - drive the Jordan Valley Road to Jerusalem - this it the traditional pilgrimage route from the time of Jesus - Zach explained the battle of Gideon and Mt. Gilboa - we stopped first at the Beit Shean - this incredible new excavation - it was one of Roman cities of the Decapolis at the time of Jesus - Saul and his sons (Jonathan) were defeated near there and their bodies hung on the city walls. It is a marvelous excavation - we stopped for lunch.
Then we began the long drive through the Jordan Valley - Zack explained some of the biblical history and modern history - the Samarian hills and the West Bank - the story of Abraham - the first Hebrew (Ivri- "one who crosses over") - the wanderer, from Haran to Canaan - from the God without to the God within - Jacob becoming "Israel" (Yisrael- "God will prevail"). We were going up to Jerusalem - we passed Jericho - where the chosen people first crossed over into the land of promise - Mt. Nebo, Moses, where John the Baptist was actually baptizing in the river Jordan - how pilgrims started their ascent to Jerusalem here, including Jesus - the Zaccheus story - we prayed the psalms of ascent as we began the last 13 miles climb - hearts were pounding this anticipation, as we sang "Jerusalem, my Destiny!" - we drove through the stark Judean Wilderness - then onto the Mount of Olives - we stopped first at the Carmelite Church of Pater Noster - into an underground cave, we remembered Jesus' teaching on prayer and the Our Father and read the Scriptures - and we remembered Jesus telling them how to pray to Abba even as he railed against the hypocrisy of Temple worship and long, wordy prayers - we are people who need to listen more, and speak less. We then gathered outside and remembered the Ascension and read the story from Acts and we remembered the painful confusion of that experience - and yet the great act of trust Jesus has in us - "look not heavenward" -- get on with it! Jesus had given us the keys to God's reign - he had announced and embraced the Reign of God. We quickly viewed the Our Father in Hebrew and Aramaic and the other languages of the world, especially trying to find our ethnic origin.
Then a walk down the Mount of Olives - there was a great view from the oversight - and a short walk down to the tear-drop Church of Dominus Flevit, where we remembered the story of Jesus weeping over this city - Betty proclaimed the story - inside the altar had Jesus as a Mother Hen. From the overlook we could see the Temple Mount and the city walls - this messianic city and mountain of the end of days! Fr. Bob challenged us to look at the walls of our hearts Jesus might be weeping over as we enter this phase of our pilgrimage. There was a powerful feeling of being on the holy mountain where Jesus spent many nights camping - Zach oriented us to the different areas of the Holy City - then our Palm Sunday Road walk down the Mount of Olives passing Gethsemane. We drove around the old walled city, looking back at the messianic Mount of Olives - and because it was Sabbath, we went to the Dung Gate and then went to the Western Wall to pray - there were a wide variety of Jews there. Then to our hotel. Zach finally went home to his family - we slept our first night in the holy city of Jerusalem - this is was a new dimension to our pilgrimage!
Then we drove to Bethlehem's Manager Square and the Church of the Nativity - it was basically empty! Elijah explained the ancient Church - the site was saved in 135 AD by Hadrian even as he tried to eradicate it - why it was saved from Moslem destruction because of the Magi icon outside (they thought they were like them) - we went downstairs to the cave of St. Jerome, near to the birth site - we celebrated the birth of Jesus with Word, Eucharist and song - Bernice proclaimed the Word of God - we reflected on the Lukan story of Jesus' birth - the great symbolism of this House of Bread - Christmas carols - "O Come let us adore him!" The sword of cynicism can kill the innocence in us - the awesome mystery of a God Who gives Himself to us and becomes one of us - powerful and difficult to explain. Leaving we discussed how this is where Jerome translated the Greek Septuagint into the Vulgate, Latin, the common language of people. Elijah explained more about the history of this Church and place - we had no wait to go downstairs to reverence the traditional silver star marking where Jesus was born - there was no one else there - wow! The chapel of the manger nearby - time for reflection on the mystery of God's love - then upstairs in the 6th century Byzantine Church, the oldest in the Holy Land - we saw the ancient mosaics - it was peaceful and prayerful in Bethlehem, except that we were plagued by desperate sellers on the street. We returned to our hotel for dinner- some went over to downtown Jerusalem - Ben Yehuda street at night - we had celebrated Christmas - the self-giving of our God in Jesus, as he became one of us!
Then we walked up from Gethsemane and the Kidron Valley to the Old City, entering through Stephen's Gate. We remember Saul watching the people's cloaks as they stoned St. Stephen there. Zack explained the Temple Mount and the Sheep Pool - then we went to the Church of St. Anne and the pools of Bethseda - restroom stop - Sr. Georgette read the story of the crippled man cured there - Zack explained about the pools for Temple purification water - then in the Church of St. Anne we remembered our grandmothers - they were some pilgrims here. Amid a few cars, we walked uphill into the Arab Quarter, to the Chapel of the Flagellation (Fortress Antonia) to begin the Way of the Cross. Zach arranged for us to have a large cross to carry and follow. People took turns - station to station we sang, prayed and remembered, as we walked through the marketplace - it was impressive watching this Jewish man helping us carry the Cross. We prayed and sang at each station - "this is holy ground" - "Jesus, remember me when you come into your kingdom" - life was going on around us - as we were walking with Jesus, it had a touch of reality, even if it did not seem solemn and quiet. We were following the Via Dolorosa, in footsteps of Jesus through the Arab Market to Calvary. We went across the roof - through an Ethiopian chapel, featuring the Queen of Sheba and Solomon. We stopped to have our group picture taken outside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and Calvary. The Church was packed - then up the stairs to Calvary, where we prayed the last stations. Zack explained that the name Calvary is taken from Latin, which is the translation of Golgotha, which is the Hebrew word for skull. It wasn't too crowded so we had time to reverence this holy place - at the Greek Orthodox side of Calvary, we lined up to reverence and touch Calvary, the spot where Jesus died, having embraced the breadth and depth of the human experience to save us - lots of different conflicting emotions going through us - it is never quite like what we expected it to be. We stopped at the anointing place below - the resurrection tomb memorial was very crowded - no chance to get in. Zack took us behind to show some of the graves from the rabbinic cemetery at Jesus' time - this is where he was buried and raised to life. There, in that holy cemetery, we celebrated the Resurrection - Sr. Pat proclaimed the resurrection and we shared the forgiving power of God's love in Jesus - "Jesus Christ is Risen Today!"
Then we went for a falafel lunch and walked through the Arab market which was basically closed for the holy day - we came to the Jewish Quarter - we saw the Cardo Maximus - the main street of Jerusalem from Roman times and the Broad Wall, ancient city wall of Jerusalem from Isaiah's time. We walked uphill to Mt. Zion, where so much of our Christian story happens - going thru Zion Date, we first visited the traditional Tomb of King David. Zach explained David's importance to the Jewish people - and suggested that this David memorial might be one of the reasons Jesus chose Zion Hill for his last Passover - Davidic messianic covenant fulfillment. David is the biblical author of the Psalms. Then upstairs to the Room of the Last Supper & Upper Room (Crusader version) where we read the Gospel story - we reflected on Jesus' last supper - the incomplete meal (cup of completion) and remembered the Feast of Pentecost. Betty read the Acts story of Pentecost, and we reflected on the birth of the Church occurring here - the Spirit of God being the New Law, as they celebrated Pentecost, the Feast of Moses receiving the Law on Sinai. - the proclamation of the end of days - the pouring forth of the Spirit of God to all peoples to create the Reign of God - the messianic end of days and covenant fulfillment - the re-ignited divine spark!
Then next door to the Dormition Abbey - the sleeping of Mary - the earliest crisis and the latest dogma - that Mary, like us, shares the full resurrection of her Son - first we gathered downstairs, where our holy women gathered near the statue of the sleeping Mary, under the holy women of the old testament - and before the unique icon of Jesus holding the newborn soul of his Mother. Sr. Georgette led a prayer service remembering all the holy women - we named our mothers, grandmothers and significant women in our lives. The men gathered around them. Then we walked down Zion Hill to St. Peter Gallicantu Church, where Jesus was imprisoned overnight in Caiphas' palace dungeon or cistern holes, after his arrest in the Garden of Gethsemane - outside we gathered near a stark statue of Peter which reminds us that he denied Jesus here. Bernice read the Scripture story of Peter's betrayal - we saw the ancient steps up to Zion Hill where Jesus probably walked three times that night - then we went into the basement cistern hole. Bob read Psalm 88 - "My only friend is darkness" - in darkness, we suffered the loneliness and fear of Jesus. Driving back to our hotel, we were given our daily morning prayer alone, on the self-emptying of Jesus and our need for forgiveness - it had been a long, powerful, intense day!
Then driving up a steep winding road into the mountains into the Judean wilderness - Zach explained about the meaning of the desert in Hebrew and in biblical revelation. That "to desert" is "to speak" in Hebrew - how the desert is about profound stillness so that we can listen - the desert as the freedom of space - from the straitjacket of Egypt (bondage) - we need stillness and silence to listen - it was quite a journey up to an overview site which was breath-taking and awe inspiring. We celebrated Eucharist on a mountaintop in the in the desert, amidst this barren grandeur in the Judean wilderness. Sr. Pat and Sr. Mary proclaimed the scripture stories of Moses and Jesus in the desert - confronting God and themselves - how we need to find sacred desert space in our lives to confront and listen to God and our deepest selves. God calls us to the edge of life sometimes. This Holy Land is the landscape of our soul. We ate Manna in the desert! The overpowering presence of God was tangible as we closed singing "How Great Thou Are!" Some quiet time to listen to the silent starkness and stillness - God calls us to the desert, as the Holy One called our ancestors to be purified, listen and discern.
Back on the bus - we had lunch at Ein Gedi , where David had a chance to kill Saul here, but did not - then up to Massada. - first a video of Massada's history - and then a cable car ride to the top of this Roman fortress built by Herod - a breath-taking view of the Judean wilderness and the evaporating Dead Sea - incredible what was there - more important, it was the place where the Essene Sect and Zealots hid and held out against the siege of the Romans (70 -74 A.D.) - and committed suicide rather than surrender to slavery - the ruins of the Roman camps still stand - the siege road up. It was Israel's last moment of freedom and possession of the promised land until 1948. A powerful symbol to them - in the synagogue there at Massada, they recently found the ruins of their Scripture scrolls, with the story from Ezekiel of God raising up the "dry bones". The cable car ride down was easier - some Ahava shopping at the end. From there went back to the Ein Gedi public beach so that we could swim in the Dead Sea - rather "float" - it was fun, playful and earthy experience! - lots of rocks but no mud! it is the lowest point on earth! Returning to Jerusalem, Zach talked about Ruth of Moab and her conversion, going to Bethlehem and becoming the great grandmother of King David. It was dark when we returned to Jerusalem -- we needed a good night's sleep.
Wednesday, October 25th New Jerusalem - Emmaus - Elah Valley
Our last full day in the Holy Land - we had to pack and leave the hotel. The sun was shining - we prayed Morning Prayer- we drove around the new city - the neighborhoods, Ben Yehuda street area - through Mea Shearim, where Ultra Orthodox Hassidic Jews live - seemed like our Amish colonies - everyone in black - Zach explained the Peyot: the curls and how they reminded them of the biblical commandment to leave or abandon the corners of their field for the poor to glean - justice as part of God's reign - the famous King David hotel and the YMCA - the government center - The Knesset building (Parliament) - we visited the Great Menorah - gift of Great Britain - Zack talked about the Israeli political system - - then we drove to the Hadassah Hospital, to see the famed Chagall Windows of the 12 tribes - beautiful! Then we drove to Yad Veshem, the Memorial to the Holocuast - newly renovated - Zach spoke with passion about the Holocaust - the museum was powerful - then upstairs to see the room of the concentration camps memorial and its eternal flame where the Pope apologized for the Christians blaming and persecuting Jews over the centuries for killing Jesus - then to the Children's Memorial - the cut off pillars - our "builders" were cut off - powerful "killing of the innocents" - The Avenue of Righteous Gentiles and the Schindler Tree. We had lunch at Yad Veshem. Then we passed the Shrine of the Book where the Dead Sea scrolls used to be - it is being renovated. Next, to Latrun, to an ancient Byzantine/Crusader Emmaus site, where we gathered to celebrate Eucharist as a pilgrim community in search of the Risen Lord - Sr. Georgette proclaimed the Word of God - we reflected on their disillusionment and the need to break it open to know the Lord - our need to share to have companions on your faith journey - people who help us listen to God amid darkness and emptiness - how we deal with disillusionment - people to break the bread of life open so that our hearts burn within us - re-igniting the divine spark that is the human soul - Sr. Georgette renewed her vows as the Franciscan Sister - we ended singing "In the Breaking of the Bread" - our final Eucharist as a pilgrim community.
We drove into the Elah Valley to the place and river bed where David fought Goliath with five smooth stones in the battle with the Philistines - and then to Tel Bet Shemesh and Sorek Valley where Samson grew up and met Delilah - and where the Ark of the Covenant was returned from the Philistines. Then Zach took his to his home in Tzur Hadassah - we met his wife Elizabeth - and six children: Netanel, Reuven, Yona, Uriel, Samuel, and David. We ate snacks and drank - Netanel and Uriel gave us a piano concert - then we returned to
Jerusalem to catch something to eat before we left for the airport. Then we descended from Jerusalem one last time. We thanked Zach and our driver with a gift - lots of feeling as we sang "Jerusalem, My Destiny" - getting through security was challenging - we had to open our stuffed suitcases - how would be close them?
We had experienced the Holy Land, through thousands of years of history, and all the stones, springs and walls began to look alike. We had seen many levels of ruins and civilizations, experienced a modern nation struggling with an ancient dream and promise, in conflict with the historic heritage of other peoples. We walked through the land of Jesus of Nazareth - listened to the Lord in the normative Word of God. Our biblical faith is challenged. - the silent times were wonderful as it was deep and welcoming. We had had the Holy Land to ourselves - what a gift! We had such an intense, exhausting, peaceful and powerful experience amid a land torn by violence and misunderstanding. We gained a new awareness of our roots. New questions arise - deeper presence is experienced! We are children of the covenant - people entrusted with the keys to God's kingdom - the people of the end of days! People called to listen deeper to the divine voice within us, freeing us in truth. Israel is the first-born son of God in our Scripture tradition. Jewish Jesus is the only Son of God, our brother, one of us. 21 of us, with open minds, different faith experiences and theological views, with faithful hearts, experienced the Holy Land, and Jesus. It is a Great Experience of roots that we might have the wings of the Spirit of Jesus to create God's Reign. We saw the Holy Land through the eyes, heart, heritage and mind of a Jewish man named Zach. We were aware that Yahweh ("The One Who is") was with us. Jesus, Emmanuel is "God with us" and was with us. We will never read or listen to Scripture the same again, ever! Words cannot capture the strange but powerful presence. We visited the Holy Land and God visited us. Words and pictures can record what we saw and did, but not what we experienced in our hearts, as the Lord God, Yahweh, Abba, the Father of Jesus, walked with us through his promised land, and speaks to us to be the new Israel, the living stones of the new Temple. Jesus as Messiah had announced the End of Days - we are now to create it, as we listen, deep within!
AND PILGRIMAGE OF OUR HOLY LIFE CONTINUES.......
Shalom,
Rev. Bob Colaresi, O.C.
Chicago, IL
robco@robco.org
Zack Shavin
Jerusalem, Israel
www.landofisraeltours.com
www.holylandrevealed.org
POB 4051, Jerusalem, Israel 91040,
Tel. +972-5-26222826 Fax.+972-2-6446167
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